When Panerai unveiled the Radiomir Tre Giorni featuring an unconventional dial hue last summer, it garnered limited attention, particularly within the watch media. However, upon my first glimpse of it, I felt an immediate allure. This sentiment was somewhat conflicting for me, given my prior disconnection with the brand. Here, I unravel my journey with Panerai and how this particular timepiece managed to captivate me.

My Engagement with Panerai

Panerai, once a cult favorite, epitomized a blend of bold aesthetics and refined Italian style, carving a distinctive niche in an industry largely dominated by conventional designs. Its association with Italian and Egyptian combat divers from World War II, coupled with Sylvester Stallone’s endorsement in the 1990s, exuded an irresistible aura that resonated with many replica watch enthusiasts, myself included. While I wasn’t a fervent Paneristi, the allure of its cushion-shaped watch cases resonated with my taste in timepieces.

My tryst with Panerai materialized with the acquisition of a PAM 328 in 2009, a 44mm Luminor Marina. Opting for the bracelet variant, albeit unusual for Panerai, I eventually transitioned it to a strap configuration. However, my disillusionment with Panerai ensued when the brand embarked on a trajectory that diverged from its roots.

Panerai’s Missteps

My disillusionment stemmed from Panerai’s escalating prices, particularly evident with limited-edition releases offering extravagant experiences like a day with Italian Navy divers or expeditions with Mike Horn. The exorbitant pricing of these editions, coupled with the introduction of specialized materials such as Fibratech or eSteel, undermined the brand’s value proposition. A comparative analysis revealed discrepancies between Panerai’s pricing strategy and the market offerings of competitors like Alpina, whose sustainable timepieces, like the Seastrong Calanda and Gyre, retailed at a fraction of Panerai’s prices.

The PAM01350 Radiomir Tre Giorni: A Resurgence

Despite my initial reservations towards the Radiomir series, the PAM01350’s distinctive dial coloration dispelled my apprehensions. The beige hue, often associated with tranquility and warmth akin to sandy landscapes, presented a refreshing departure from traditional dial palettes. Notably, the gradient effect imbued depth to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic allure without overwhelming subtlety. Furthermore, the luminous indices, coupled with red-gold hands, ensured legibility in diverse lighting conditions, accentuating the watch’s functionality.

The watch’s 45mm cushion-shaped Patina steel case, while imposing, exuded a balanced visual presence on the wrist, attributed in part to its abbreviated wire lugs. Panerai’s innovative “Patina steel” treatment lent a weathered aesthetic to the case, juxtaposed with polished edges that accentuated its sophistication.

Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the PAM01350 housed the P.6000 movement, boasting a commendable three-day power reserve and a hacking mechanism, underscoring its reliability despite minimalistic finishing.

Despite its merits, the PAM01350’s pricing, at €7,200, raised eyebrows, considering the utilitarian wire lugs and the movement’s comparability with fake watches priced significantly lower. Yet, my affinity for this timepiece transcends mere rationale, embodying the enigmatic allure of horological passion.

A Reflection on Brand Affiliation

As I ponder the titular question, “Can I love a watch and hate the brand behind it?” I’m inclined to believe otherwise. My evolving perspective on watches has liberated me from brand allegiance, emphasizing personal preference over brand association. Consequently, my affinity for Panerai doesn’t necessitate adherence to the Paneristi ethos. If you’re curious about Panerai’s current identity, I invite you to explore their official website.

Do you find resonance with particular watch brands? Have you ever cherished a timepiece from a brand you don’t particularly favor? Let’s delve into this discourse in the comments section.